Physical Address
304 North Cardinal St.
Dorchester Center, MA 02124
Kyoto’s Kifune Shrine: Legends of Love and the Mysterious Cursed Hour Ritual
Kifune Shrine, the birthplace of ema (wooden plaques for writing prayers), offers unique beauty in every season. In spring, fresh greenery blooms; summer brings kawadoko dining by the river; autumn showcases vibrant foliage; and winter is lit by enchanting snow lanterns. Its iconic stone staircase, lined with lanterns, is a must-see.
Kifune Shrine is located in Kyoto’s Ukyo Ward and consists of three main sections: Main Shrine (Honmiya), Associative Shrine(Yui-no-yashiro), and Inner Shrine (Okumiya).
The Main Shrine, sitting atop the lantern-lit steps, is the most popular spot for visitors. Associative Shrine and Inner Shrine are further up the path.
The Main Shrine and Inner Shrine are dedicated to the water god Takaokami-no-kami (高龗神), while Associative Shrine honors the deity of matchmaking, Iwanaga-hime-no-mikoto (磐長姬命).
The history of Kifune Shrine dates back roughly 1,600 years. Situated upstream of Kyoto’s Kamo River, it is dedicated to the water deity Takaokami-no-kami, believed to govern rainfall and water flow. As such, Kifune Shrine has long been revered as a sacred site for praying for rain. Kifune Shrine in Kyoto serves as the head shrine for about 450 Kifune Shrines across Japan.
To get there, we took the Eizan Railway to Kibuneguchi Station, then boarded the No. 33 bus and got off at Kifune Station. After walking along the mountain path and stream, we turned a corner to find the famous staircase and lanterns marking the entrance to the Main Shrine.
Before visiting the Main Shrine, we enjoyed a kaiseki meal at Kibune Kiraku, a nearby restaurant. The interior featured tatami flooring, and I sat by the window, savoring the food while taking in the serene view outside.
Since we visited during spring, we missed out on the famous kawadoko dining, where meals are served on platforms over the river during the summer. It’s a bit of a shame, but after a satisfying meal, we continued on our pilgrimage.
Main Shrine (Honmiya)
Illuminations
Kifune Shrine’s lantern lighting events are extremely popular, especially in the winter. During autumn, the lanterns are lit from sunset until around 8 PM each day. In winter, the illumination schedule varies yearly and isn’t held daily; the specific dates are announced annually. Each day’s decision about the illumination is posted on Kifune Shrine’s Facebook page at 3 PM. If there’s insufficient snow or severe weather, the event may be canceled.
Ema
Kifune Shrine is the birthplace of the ema (wooden plaques for writing prayers). Inside the shrine, you’ll find statues of a black horse and a white horse. In ancient times, horses were considered sacred animals and offered to shrines as a way of expressing sincerity or asking for favors.
A black horse was offered when praying for rain, and a white horse for clear skies. Over time, due to the high cost of maintaining live horses, this practice was replaced by offering wooden plaques painted with horses, which we now call ema.
Water Fortune-Telling
As the guardian of water sources, Kifune Shrine is famous for its “water fortune-telling.” You choose a fortune slip and place it in the water, where the words magically appear, revealing your fortune. Don’t worry if you don’t read Japanese—the slip has a QR code that, when scanned, provides a translation in English. Once the paper dries, it returns to being a blank sheet.
Kawadoko Dining
One of the most unique experiences near Kifune Shrine is kawadoko dining. This special type of dining takes place in the summer when restaurants set up platforms over or beside the river, allowing diners to enjoy their meals while listening to the sound of flowing water. It’s a refreshing and relaxing experience!
Associative Shrine (Yui-no-yashiro)
Located between the Main Shrine and Inner Shrine, Associative Shrine is dedicated to Iwanaga-hime-no-mikoto(磐長姬命), the goddess of matchmaking.
According to legend, the grandson of Amaterasu, Ninigi-no-Mikoto (瓊瓊杵尊), wanted to marry Iwanaga-hime’s sister, Konohanasakuya-hime (木花開耶姬). Their father wished for both daughters to marry Ninigi-no-Mikoto, but Ninigi-no-Mikoto refused due to Iwanaga-hime’s unattractive appearance and only chose the beautiful Konohanasakuya-hime. As a result, Iwanaga-hime became the deity who watches over people with troubled relationships, offering her blessings to those seeking love.
The shrine is also famous for the legend of the Heian-period poetess Izumi Shikibu, who prayed here for her husband’s return, and they eventually reconciled. Along the way to Yui-no-yashiro, you’ll pass two sacred cedar trees known as “Aioi-no-sugi“, which share a single root, symbolizing lifelong partnership and unity.
Inner Shrine (Okumiya)
Ushi no toki mairi (Cursed Hour Visit)
Legend has it that in ancient times, a deity descended on the slopes of Kifune during the Year of the Ox (the ox hour is around 2 a.m.) , in the month and hour of the ox, to protect the land and its people.
This myth made Kifune Shrine the infamous site of the Ushi no toki mairi, or Cursed Hour Visit, which takes place at the Okumiya—the original location where the shrine was first established.
According to the tale, a woman who had been abandoned by her husband came to Kifune Shrine to perform theUshi no toki mairi for revenge. The ritual, conducted between 1 and 3 AM, involved the woman painting her face red, dressing in red robes, and wearing an iron crown with three candles.
She would nail a straw effigy containing her target’s hair or nails to a nearby ancient tree, cursing them with each strike. On the seventh day, her wish would be granted, and the cursed individual would die in agony.
The woman’s husband and his new wife were tormented nightly by terrifying dreams and sought the help of the famous onmyoji, Abe no Seimei. He prayed continuously in an effort to break the curse before it was fulfilled.
On the final night, the ghost of the woman appeared to claim her husband, but Seimei’s protective magic prevented her from taking him. Unable to complete her revenge, the woman eventually died in anguish.
Kifune Shrine is relatively quick to explore. However, if you enjoy hiking, I personally recommend visiting Kurama-dera Temple as well, which is nearby and can be combined with a day trip to both sites.
Kifune Shrine Information
- Free admission
- Address: 1074 Kurama-honmachi, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
- Operating hours: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM
- Festivals: Kifune Festival (June 1), Fire Festival (November 7)
How to get to Kifune Shrine
- Take the Eizan Railway Kurama Line from Demachiyanagi Station to Kibuneguchi Station. Then, take the No. 33 bus and get off at Kifune Station.
- You can buy the ticket at 👉👉 KKday | Keihan Electric Railway: Kyoto-Osaka Sightseeing 1-Day Rail Pass 👈👈
Thanks for reading!
If you’re interested in my stories, feel free to follow me on Instagram.
👉👉 IG: @sika_artist 👈👈
